Saturday, August 13, 2011

Days 341 to 345 – Making our way to Greece while the sun shines

Day 341 – (Wed) This trip was totally spontaneous and only happened in large part thanks to Nakita’s strong desire to go somewhere warm before she went home (and my strong desire to go back to Greece).  After a couple of days of procrastination (read: searching for cheap flights to cool places) Nakita found us cheap return flights to the Greek island of Kos – somewhere I’d not really heard of, and not one of “the” Greek islands on the must do list but it looked lovely on the tourist websites and would be a bit cheaper thanks to its lower profile. Only problem – we had to fly in and out of Brussels!!! As loyal readers may remember Brussels is the hated travel destination of most exchange students, and we were headed to the terrible and ‘remote’ Brussels Charleroi airport. Nonetheless, we (being me, Nakita from Sydney and Ally from Canada, whom you may remember from the Faro, Portugal post :P) were stoked to be heading for 4 nights of sun, sand and Greek food!!


First glimpse of Greek islands!

We got in late at night so there was really only time for dinner. We stayed at the Koala Hotel (which I almost didn’t want to stay in because of the name) but it was a great deal for a triple share room (a bit hard to find – and Greece doesn’t really seem to ‘do’ hostels, kind of like Bali because the hotels are so cheap to begin with) but the hotel ended up being great. It was run by a couple of Aussie-born Greek blokes who were really helpful, friendly and down to Earth. They recommended a place for dinner down the road so off we went. About half an hour later (after walking down a mildly dodgy feeling street with no street lights – a sign of austerity?) we were seated at a table covered in different meals to share, cold beer/wine and good company J
first dinner
From the moment we landed it was just so nice to be in Greece. It was definitely in the top 3 of my favourite countries (which rotated frequently between Greece, Croatia and Germany). The air was warm, no cardigan necessary, able to wear a dress without leggings, a nice breeze, not too humid… perfect beer and swimming weather. And speaking of swimming, if we leaned out over the balcony of our (air-conditioned … haven’t used that stuff in a while) hotel room (probably a bit further than was safe) we could see the beach J The landscape was quite arid and really reminded me of Australia, gum trees included! We got a good look at it on a bus ride from the airport in the centre of the island of Kos to Kos town on the north-east end.

One of the strangest things about this place though is that it was almost mini-Maastricht… but with better weather. The first sign that we were actually heading to a Dutch island was the abundance of Dutch people on the plane and airport bus. Other signs included restaurant menus in Greek and Dutch (not English), signs to hire things in Dutch, Greek waiters greeting restaurant guests in fluent Dutch and… the biggest giveaway… the bicycles on every corner (including signs in Dutch to hire them!). We were told by locals that because the island is mostly flat and has always had a pretty good cycle network with good bike paths etc its become quite the popular destination with the Dutchies. Still it was enough of a change of scenery for us!
our bikes and the scenery
Day 342 – (Thurs) Our first day was spent taking it pretty easy, starting with an orientation walk of the area, from our hotel down to the beach, along the water and around to a marina. Dotted around Kos town are random areas of cordoned off old ruins and of course the cycle paths. It was quite hot already though so we made a bee-line back to the hotel to hire bikes nearby which made getting around a whole lot easier – and more fun. There was a great breeze as we whizzed back to the marina for a bit more of a wander and a look around some of the squares, stalls etc. The rest of the day was spent lunching and lounging on the beach swimming and (unfortunately for me) getting a ridiculous tan line that lasted the rest of the trip! We found a restaurant/bar on the beach with free lounge chairs and indulged in cocktails (Nakita, do you like piiiiina colaaaaadas?!), Greek nibblies and dipping into the water right in front of us. By June the water had time to warm up a little but it was still quite fresh. Eventually we cycled back to the hotel and, after a quick stop off at the shop for more bottled water (lucky it was cheap but I wouldn’t suggest drinking the water on most greek islands, very salty… as is the sea water around the place – think crispy skin after coming out of the water!) we headed out for dinner again. The plan was to avoid the really touristy places, anywhere with pictures of food or a hawker out the front (or definitely both) was out of the question. Eventually we found an unassuming place one building back from the main road along the beach with a nice waiter who didn’t hassle us – perfect. The food was really good, nice and authentic, well cooked and fresh. I had moussaka and the mascot of our trip – the obligatory Greek salad.

our view for lunch
a dip after lunch
Day 343 - (Fri). This whole day was spent on the water. We’d booked a trip the day before on a sailing boat to head out to three nearby islands. A 9am start and it was already hot under the sun (unfortunately this meant a bit more unwitting sunburn – it seems my Australian sun radar was a bit out of whack… I figured they have Ozone up there, she’ll be right… not so much … but lesson learnt for the next trip to, Croatia, I assure you). After about an hour and a half of relaxing cruising out into open waters we came to the first stop, Platti. Bascially it was a little cove with a flat white sand beach and some really cute classic blue and white buildings a bit back from the beach. We didn’t have long, about a half hour by the time we got down from the boat but it was enough for a quick dip. Back on the boat it was time for lunch – everything you’d expect; lamb skewers, rice, salad, tzatziki, bread etc etc. Was delicious and clearly home made (well, boat made… but with lurv :P). The crew on the boat were great; our captain Georgie, we called him, his wife and daughter in the kitchen by the looks of it, and … the entertainment… Kosta, the boat clown effectively. This guy was trouble – typical cheeky Greek sense of humour and only took it too far on a few occasions :P

relaxing on the boat


our 'mate' Goergie!

After lunch we puttered off to Kalymnos where it was SO stinking hot that all we could do was find the nearest geltai shop to the boat and sit in the shade and watch the harbour. It was bloody good gelati tho (I spotted an old guy nearby who had a fresh looking fruit salad and gelati so I copy-catted that). After about an hour it was back on the boat (where we were treated to some home-made delicious Greek donut thingies OMG SO good!) and then full-speed ahead for the last stop – Pserimos. This was a tiny little alcove where we could jump off the boat into the water (which I convinced Nakita to do and then we both paid for it for a while after with water up our nose!) and then just walk up around the bay or explore a little church above the rocks. Somehwere along the way we also saw some dolphins and Gorgie slowed down for us to have a look. The best part of the whole day though was simply the warm wind in our hair and that reassuring motion of the boat over teeny waves. Eventually it was time to head back to Kos Town. Dinner that night (we’d worked up an appetite swimming and lazing around all day remember!) was on the edge of a lovely little plaza in the middle of the old town. Really we just ordered a collection of starters; dolmades, lentil patties, the obligatory Greek salad etc. I was surprised to find I like dolmades these days (maturing taste buds and all that). We sat in the warm evening air with a light breeze and watched little kids run around the square. The only downer of the night was the waitress telling us we were ordering too much! Ha! We told her we were on holidays and we’d eat what we wanted!!
Nakita and I celebrating surviving jumping off the boat
'hanging out' at the front of the boat
Platti
Kalymnos
Pserimos
Day 344 – (Sat) Our last full day in Kos and we decided to hit up the hot springs for which the island is apparently famed. They did not disappoint. Usually I imagine hot springs these days to be concrete pools dug out of the ground with hot water being pumped in, completely commercial and charmless. What we were greeted with when we arrived at the beach (after a great bus ride up a slowly ascending hill, affording amazing views of the cobalt blue sea and swish resorts on the hillside) was literally some sand dug out of the ground, a few big rocks placed on the sea-side of the dug-out to stop the ocean waves coming in and a trickle of really, really hot water coming in from the cliff side up the beach. There was a smell of sulphur immediately and we could see little bubbles rising in the water. Foolishly, our first entrée into the hot spring was in the hottest side, where the fresh hot water comes in, so it was really bloody hot. It took quite a while to adjust and was honestly pretty uncomfortable at first, but after we adjusted I could see how it felt nice. Later we discovered if you sit on the ocean side, a little of the cooler ocean water seeps in and makes the temperature more bearable. The rest of the afternoon was spent lying on a sun lounger under a palm frond umbrella, reading a magazine, a quick dip and then back to the bus stop. It was a steep walk back up to the main road from the beach below, and at the top we were greeted by a real mountain goat… who decided he wanted to eat my shorts!! Thankfully an ice cream vendor was on hand to deftly shoo him away :S

Hot springs


Cliffs on way to hot springs


Goat trying to eat my shorts!! (and a great shot of dodgy arm tan line!!)

Our original plan for the day had been to cycle to the beach, but we soon changed our mind when we found out how steep it was to get up there. By the time we got back on the bus to Kos Town it felt like 100C (I think my aussie internal thermometer had been turned down during a Dutch winter and I was feeling it a bit more than usual). Sitting on the bus also gave us the chance to take in the views.
The evening consisted of a swim in the hotel pool and cocktail hour with one of the hotel guys, Angelo, who made us cocktails! He also recommended a place for dinner, a little way down the road along the beach in the opposite direction to the Marina where he said locals eat. We cycled there and pulled up to a place that was LITERALLY on the water – as in there was our table, a little wooden fence and then the beach. We could see Turkey out in the distance (Kos is only 20 minutes from Bodrum on the Turkish east coast) and there was, again, a lovely breeze. Don’t know about the locals eating there though – we ended up at a table next to some Dutch people we met coming off the plane! Again there was plenty of food for dinner; the highlight of my meal – a piece of chargrilled octopus that looked like a hand!
Angelo's crazy cocktails
My octopus 'hand'
Day 345 – (Sun) Time to go home. I started our last day with a little solo cycle in the opposite direction for a bit of an explore. Later we lunched at the Museum Restaurant, recommended to us by a fellow exchanger where again we ordered A LOT and again the waiter told us it was too much. But we showed him! Lunch was followed by a stroll in the Marina to buy a few paintings as souveniers and then a sweaty walk to the airport bus stop with our luggage. Once on the plane it was announced  that we would be stuck on the tarmac for 20 minutes. But it was OK, we passed the time staring at a gorgeous baby and his equally gorgeous Greek dad (flying solo) in the row in front!

Arriving back in Brussels “le shit-hole” Charleroi Airport (as we have now dubbed) it, we entered into the nerve-wracking process of procuring a hotel in jumbled English-French to take us to the expectedly dodgy hotel we’d booked for the night seeing our flight arrived at 10.45pm and there were no trains running back to Maas til the next day. We had low expectations of the place given its reviews but I was actually pleasantly surprised. Don’t get me wrong, it was VERY basic and a bit grimy, with that faint smell of cigarette smoke that never really goes away. But it was generally clean, the guy at the front desk was surprisingly helpful and it had wifi and even breakfast included (those chocolate croissants I have now decided I love!).
Day 346 – (Mon) Up early and back to Maas by train. While other parts of beligum are really picturesque (think Bruges of Antwerp) but Brussels and especially  its outerlying areas really aren’t. Most of the time you just feel unsafe and dirty! Although I am going to miss good train travel….

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