Liking to do things properly though, our gang booked a hostel to stay the night. Arriving in the afternoon, the first thing we saw was a crazy man, fully dressed in a suit and leather shoes, jump into a fountain! (remember the temperature is below freezing!!!) He literally flopped down back first into the water, and when he got up steam was coming off him!!! We were dumfounded and disturbed that he probably caught hypothermia afterwards!!!
if you squint you can see the guy laying down in the fountain
After recovering from the shock of it, we visited the stunning Aachener Dom, the Cathedral which dominates the centre of town and was built in something like 805 AD, making it one of the oldest churches in Germany. It houses treasures from the early medieval period and the mosaic ceiling is a work of art which we spent time admiring with our mouths open and head tilted back. The tiny, brightly coloured and gold mosaics were positioned in so many imaginative patterns, a different one for each arch or panel. The leadlight was also amazing, whole walls of windows, almost from floor to ceiling in vibrant purples, aquas, reds and greens which seemed to depict people and tell a story. Even in muted light of a snowy day they were beautiful.
Cathedral overlooking the markets
But the real drawcard of Aachen was the Christmas Markets. The tradition dates back to the seventies when it was called the Printen Market and was much smaller. These days its exactly what you'd expect from a Christmas Market ... jingles playing, little log-cabin-like stalls selling decorations, sweets, food and drinks, knitted clothes, liquers etc And they were actually capped with real snow as it was still snowing. The Christmas mood was fostered by a sweet organ grinder man playing festive songs and all the fairy lights and lit-up shop windows showcasing wrapped treats. And the best bit, the whole rabbit warren of log-cabin stalls is watched over by a giant inflatable gingerbread man who reminded me of Mongo from the Shrek movie and whom I’m sure features in every visitor’s photo reel.
Looks just like in Shrek!!
Luckily, we hadn't eaten too much because the main joy for us was sampling the local christmas cuisine. I returned at least a dress size larger, I'm sure, but I harbour no regret; I knew what I was getting myself into. The menu at these places reads like Christmas lunch or dinner – on offer every day and night for about a month before the big day. We tucked into bratwurst (at more than a foot long, they hang invitingly over the sides of their crusty baguette beds), a warming pork stew with (not that) hot sauce and onions and chunky white backfisch (literally ‘fried fish’) with a potato fritter (with a side of apple sauce). We were eyeing off the waffles/crepes/olliebollen (like donuts but with no hole and more circular)/steamed puddings etc for dessert but there was no room! Instead, our tummies were filled with mulled wine and eggnog, warming in more ways than one! Hence a mug in hand is the only thing that keeps the hordes going as they stand outside, in snow and below freezing temperatures, trying to remain cheerful although they can’t feel their toes. We bought our beverages from a stand with little boot-shaped mugs which made great souvenirs. We did however buy some of Aachen’s very own Printen biscuit - a chewy, glazed type of gingerbread with all the spicy, fruity flavours of the season, for later.
mmmm toasty beverages
shop window piled high with Printen and other tasty presents
As for the stalls, I won’t lie, they’re a bit repetitive. But the Christmas decorations were more hand-made than factory-line and the knitted hats and gloveswould have come in handy if we weren't dressed for the truly frosty winter air.
As we spent the night we were able to continue our culinary tour of Aachen in the morning with an all-you-can-eat German buffet breakfast at a cafe which was recommended on a few travel websites. It did not disappoint. The joint was filled with Germans so we knew it must have been good. On offer were sausages, bacon, meatballs, eggs, all types of bread rolls, cheeses, fresh fruit, breakfast meats like ham and shaved turkey, croissants, yoghurt, juice.... even chocolates! Such choice is a luxury for us students who usually make porridge or try to cook toast on the stove top in Maastricht!
All that was enough to fuel us as we did another quick trip round the markets and the shopping strip of Aachen before hopping on a bus home. Arriving home we set about preparing our Guesthouse Christmas Dinner extravaganza. Two Scots, two Aussies and a Canadian (and a partridge in a pear tree), we ended up with a mixed main meal and desserts compiled of foods we love to eat at home for Christmas (or in the case of the Brussel sprouts - foods the Dutch love to eat at Christmas!) We even decorated the appartment and wore stupid christmas hats!
making mulled wine
The next day, Sunday December 5, is Sinter Klaas day in the Netherlands. It's the birthday of Sinter Klaas, who is different from Santa Claus (this guy comes from Spain apparently and has little dark-skinned spanish helpers, except the whole thing is very un-PC bc people dress up as the helpers - called zwarte piet, or black pete - are white but put on black make-up. and now that the Dutch are realising this might not be the impression to make - suggesting they're sinter klaas' slaves - they say instead that maybe black pete is just black from the soot in the chimneys when delivering presents...?) Anyway, the whole thing's a bit weird but highly entertaining as people all dressed up wander around town. And the kids still love it so that has to count for something... In the centre of Maastricht they'd set up a Christmas market with a fake ice skating rink and a ferris wheel. The five of us girls hopped aboard the giant wheel and (squeeling all the way) got our first aerial glimpse of 'our' town (it still looked pretty flat! but the snow-capped house rooves were cute). Before the night ended, we made a quick trip to Kerst aan de Maas (Christmas on the river Maas) where we ducked into a temporary 'hot choclate' tent and indulged in beverages with whipped cream on top... mmmmmm
the very un-PC Zwarte Piet!
Maastricht's Christmas Market in town and the church in the background
view of Maastricht from atop the ferris wheel
observations: woollen socks (at least 2 or 3 pairs) are necessary to ward off the chance of losing a toe. snow eventually turns to ice and ice is not my friend. however, i seem to have more luck with it than the many aussie students I've heard about who fall flat on their ass
mini victories: i'm YET to fall but not counting chickens...
mistakes: not buying wollen socks before the first snow fall... was seriously worried about by left big toe for a bit there! ("I can't feel my toes... I don't have any toes!!!" has never rung truer!)
Dutch I've learned: "Fietsen in de sneeuw is heel moijelijk!" = "cycling in the snow is really hard!"
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