These times they are a changin'

Just takin' some time out to put down a few observations of late.
This blog comes slightly out of order, in that I’ve just got back from 2 weeks holidays with the lovely Brett (which I will blog about soon I promise but its looming as a massive undertaking for another day) but I’ve noticed a few things which I wanted to share.


Spring has finally sprung in Maastricht. I’ve been waiting for it for so long because I got here in time to see the trees change from green to autumn colours to deathly black sticks and I’ve been so looking forward to seeing all the leaves and flowers come back. Now don’t get too excited, the signs are only small at the moment – but the promise they hold is making everyone here noticeably more happy. Little daisies are starting to sprout in the green lawns now that they’re no longer suffocated by snow, and rows of yellow or purple flowers are popping up in random clumps in large patches of grass (for example there’s a rectangular sort of section of flowers out the front of our guesthouse building in the middle of a whole field of grass). Japanese blossom trees are flowering and there are daffodils in people’s front gardens. (All of this bodes very well for our planned trip to the Netherland’s largest display of tulips and other flowers up north in about a month’s time).

     

(a taste of the Keukenhof flower gardens - maastricht doesn't quite look like this yet!)

The weather also has pulled its finger out – it got to a whopping 16C yesterday! (although the average has been more like 13C during the day and about 4C at night.) Still, there’s sun, oh glorious sun. It was actually warm in the sunlight, like ‘break a small sweat if you were mildly physically active in said sun’ warm. My new roomie even hauled a chair out on to her balcony (which I don’t think anyone else has used since I’ve been here) to read a book in the sun. And it won't be long before Nakita gets out those shorts she's been longing to wear (and so whinging about) for months! When we first got here all the Aussie gave these Euro wimps crap for ripping off their tops and dining alfresco as soon as the weather tipped above 10C but after months of sunlight deprivation and night falling as early as 4.30pm we know understand. When Brett and I left here 2 and a bit weeks ago it was about 5C, gloves, scarves and hats were necessary. On my return I find I need only wear 2 layers now and I can even get away with cycling without gloves. I don’t even need the 5 pairs of woollen socks I’ve accumulated. Over the last few days I too, like some deprived European sunflower, have begun turning my head to the sun every chance I get (although I argue it is still a bit too chilly to sit outside to eat).

I am most pleased though at the extended daylight hours – it’s now light until at least 6.30pm which means less riding home in the dark. AND its lighter earlier in the mornings which, yep, you guessed it, means less riding TO uni in the dark. All in all the weather over the past few days has reminded me a bit of home, those days between summer and autumn where its no longer beach weather but its perfect for a drive with the window down or a walk on the beach (but not a swim).


However, I am weary not to get ahead of myself. We have had bursts of nice weather before (say a week of 8C days in between weeks of frost and fog) and even during one day the weather can turn – you leave the house without a scarfe, hat or gloves because you think it won’t be necessary and end up coming home an ice cube. So I refused to be suckered in completely. But it is officially spring here and the signs are good for a gradually move back to that elusive European summer I experience for just a few weeks at the start of my trip.



And on another note, I know I've been a bit slack with your Dutch lessons (although I've still been going to mine) so here's some Dutch I've learned:
"Helas pindakaas!" = "that's crap!"
spijkerbroek is the Dutch word for jeans (go firgure)
and a cute one... krumeltjes = crumbs! :)

Days 138 to 140 - Aachen (that's a town, not a sneezing noise)

This weekend (friday avo to saturday avo) we hit the road and bussed over the border the German town of Aachen. Although small, its ridiculously popular with students - pretty much every exchanger goes there at some point (some more times than necessary - you know who you are!). Its popular because its cheap to get ther (11 euro return bus trip), its cheap to eat and drink there (including 4 euro cocktails in one infamous precinct) and its doable in a day without having to book accommodation.


Liking to do things properly though, our gang booked a hostel to stay the night. Arriving in the afternoon, the first thing we saw was a crazy man, fully dressed in a suit and leather shoes, jump into a fountain! (remember the temperature is below freezing!!!) He literally flopped down back first into the water, and when he got up steam was coming off him!!! We were dumfounded and disturbed that he probably caught hypothermia afterwards!!!

if you squint you can see the guy laying down in the fountain

After recovering from the shock of it, we visited the stunning Aachener Dom, the Cathedral which dominates the centre of town and was built in something like 805 AD, making it one of the oldest churches in Germany. It houses treasures from the early medieval period and the mosaic ceiling is a work of art which we spent time admiring with our mouths open and head tilted back. The tiny, brightly coloured and gold mosaics were positioned in so many imaginative patterns, a different one for each arch or panel. The leadlight was also amazing, whole walls of windows, almost from floor to ceiling in vibrant purples, aquas, reds and greens which seemed to depict people and tell a story. Even in muted light of a snowy day they were beautiful.

Cathedral overlooking the markets

 But the real drawcard of Aachen was the Christmas Markets. The tradition dates back to the seventies when it was called the Printen Market and was much smaller. These days its exactly what you'd expect from a Christmas Market ... jingles playing, little log-cabin-like stalls selling decorations, sweets, food and drinks, knitted clothes, liquers etc And they were actually capped with real snow as it was still snowing. The Christmas mood was fostered by a sweet organ grinder man playing festive songs and all the fairy lights and lit-up shop windows showcasing wrapped treats. And the best bit, the whole rabbit warren of log-cabin stalls is watched over by a giant inflatable gingerbread man who reminded me of Mongo from the Shrek movie and whom I’m sure features in every visitor’s photo reel.

Looks just like in Shrek!!

Luckily, we hadn't eaten too much because the main joy for us was sampling the local christmas cuisine. I returned at least a dress size larger, I'm sure, but I harbour no regret; I knew what I was getting myself into. The menu at these places reads like Christmas lunch or dinner – on offer every day and night for about a month before the big day. We tucked into bratwurst (at more than a foot long, they hang invitingly over the sides of their crusty baguette beds), a warming pork stew with (not that) hot sauce and onions and chunky white backfisch (literally ‘fried fish’) with a potato fritter (with a side of apple sauce). We were eyeing off the waffles/crepes/olliebollen (like donuts but with no hole and more circular)/steamed puddings etc for dessert but there was no room! Instead, our tummies were filled with mulled wine and eggnog, warming in more ways than one! Hence a mug in hand is the only thing that keeps the hordes going as they stand outside, in snow and below freezing temperatures, trying to remain cheerful although they can’t feel their toes. We bought our beverages from a stand with little boot-shaped mugs which made great souvenirs. We did however buy some of Aachen’s very own Printen biscuit - a chewy, glazed type of gingerbread with all the spicy, fruity flavours of the season, for later.

mmmm toasty beverages

shop window piled high with Printen and other tasty presents

As for the stalls, I won’t lie, they’re a bit repetitive. But the Christmas decorations were more hand-made than factory-line and the knitted hats and gloveswould have come in handy if we weren't dressed for the truly frosty winter air.

As we spent the night we were able to continue our culinary tour of Aachen in the morning with an all-you-can-eat German buffet breakfast at a cafe which was recommended on a few travel websites. It did not disappoint. The joint was filled with Germans so we knew it must have been good. On offer were sausages, bacon, meatballs, eggs, all types of bread rolls, cheeses, fresh fruit, breakfast meats like ham and shaved turkey, croissants, yoghurt, juice.... even chocolates! Such choice is a luxury for us students who usually make porridge or try to cook toast on the stove top in Maastricht!

All that was enough to fuel us as we did another quick trip round the markets and the shopping strip of Aachen before hopping on a bus home. Arriving home we set about preparing our Guesthouse Christmas Dinner extravaganza. Two Scots, two Aussies and a Canadian (and a partridge in a pear tree), we ended up with a mixed main meal and desserts compiled of foods we love to eat at home for Christmas (or in the case of the Brussel sprouts - foods the Dutch love to eat at Christmas!) We even decorated the appartment and wore stupid christmas hats!

making mulled wine

The next day, Sunday December 5, is Sinter Klaas day in the Netherlands. It's the birthday of Sinter Klaas, who is different from Santa Claus (this guy comes from Spain apparently and has little dark-skinned spanish helpers, except the whole thing is very un-PC bc people dress up as the helpers - called zwarte piet, or black pete - are white but put on black make-up. and now that the Dutch are realising this might not be the impression to make - suggesting they're sinter klaas' slaves - they say instead that maybe black pete is just black from the soot in the chimneys when delivering presents...?) Anyway, the whole thing's a bit weird but highly entertaining as people all dressed up wander around town. And the kids still love it so that has to count for something... In the centre of Maastricht they'd set up a Christmas market with a fake ice skating rink and a ferris wheel. The five of us girls hopped aboard the giant wheel and (squeeling all the way) got our first aerial glimpse of 'our' town (it still looked pretty flat! but the snow-capped house rooves were cute). Before the night ended, we made a quick trip to Kerst aan de Maas (Christmas on the river Maas) where we ducked into a temporary 'hot choclate' tent and indulged in beverages with whipped cream on top... mmmmmm

the very un-PC Zwarte Piet!

Maastricht's Christmas Market in town and the church in the background

view of Maastricht from atop the ferris wheel

observations: woollen socks (at least 2 or 3 pairs) are necessary to ward off the chance of losing a toe. snow eventually turns to ice and ice is not my friend. however, i seem to have more luck with it than the many aussie students I've heard about who fall flat on their ass

mini victories: i'm YET to fall but not counting chickens...

mistakes: not buying wollen socks before the first snow fall... was seriously worried about by left big toe for a bit there! ("I can't feel my toes... I don't have any toes!!!" has never rung truer!)

Dutch I've learned: "Fietsen in de sneeuw is heel moijelijk!" = "cycling in the snow is really hard!"

Day 136 - apparently there's a downside to snow...

So after all my gushing a few days ago, it has come to my attention that there is in fact a downside to snow! I know, it looks so innocent right... all pure as the driven you-know-what... its got quite the reputation in movies etc, bringing happens and beauty to all. Until it gets a but mushy... or dirty... or hard and icy... then we're in trouble.

I always knew it was going to be a bit more difficult getting around on two wheels once the white stuff fell, but I severly underestimated the trickiness. Its even difficult getting around on two feet!
This stuff is crunchy and slippery and has a mind of its own! One minute you're rolling along at a steady pace with your eyes on the road ahead - the next minute the wheel hits a clump of snow/ice and your wheel shoots off in a different direction altogether. No warning, no way to control it, just hold on!

I have already learned that the No. 1 rule is Don't Panic. Other tips include:
No. 2: Two hands kiddies - always two hands on the handle bars.
No. 3: Hit the lights - just like cars in gloomy weather, its smart to put the bike lights on.
No.4: Know when to admit defeat (there's always the bus)

But this brings me to another observation - is there some shame in taking the bus? In Australia, most people drive, so taking the bus is the moral high ground. Here, everyone is expected to cycle, so the bus isn't exactly better for the environment than peddle power. And if you can ride, why pay for a ride right? So I feel as though taking the bus is copping out... But, thankfully, I was assured by one of my Dutch friends this evening that, no, it is ok to take the bus and, yes, people here do do that when the weather is out to get them. Even so, its not cheap here, and I've been warned it can take longer because vehicle traffic increases during the snow and traffic jams abound in a city filled with roundabouts and bike lanes.

Still, there are definitely those determined souls who remain out and about on their treddlies, all rugged up, you can barely see their face as they brace against the arctic chill. Honestly, it is beyond cold here now (If you won't take my word for it, believe the forecast of -11C one day this week!!!) Normal layering ain't cutting it anymore so I look like the Michelin Man every time I step out the door now. I don't understand how there's women out there who still manage to look fashionable in this weather!! (Although a Canadian friend consoled me with the epiphany that all the fashionable women are just cold! Beauty is pain, right?!). As for me, I got busted by a friend in the most hilarious ensemble the other day, featuring black gloves, red scarfe, beige jacket, grey trackies tucked into blue-grey boots and white/pink pom-pom beanie! Nothing matched, and NOTHING was fashionable. Regardless, I looked her (dressed in cute boots, skirt, jacket and tweed hat) dead in the eye and professed "what?! I don't care as long as I'm warm and dry!"

Day 90 - Up THAT creek!

Day 90 (sat) - Row, row, row your boat ... not so gently upstream!
Today, while my guesthouse friends swanned around Liege (just over the Belgian border) shopping and 'doing' coffee, I decided it would be a great idea to explore the great outdoors of Maastricht. Earlier in the week I signed up for a kayaking trip on the River Maas (without really thinking about weather conditions, my limited wardrobe at the time or, for that matter, my kayaking skills...) Nonetheless, I cycled down to meet the group of other intrepid UCMers and we headed for the launching point on the river. Literally as soon as we got there it started to rain!
Exhibit A:

Despite wearing every piece of remotely suitable clothing I owned (old sneakers, 2 pairs of leggings, track pants, multitude of tops, mildy waterprood jacket & coopers cap and beanie combo to finish off the look) I got ridiculously wet early on. I teamed up with a French girl who had kayaked before and, while we struggled a bit at first (think round and round in circles or a zig zag effect) we found a rhythm eventually and were at the head or at least middle of the pack of 9 kayaks-for-two for most of the day.

Trudging to our fate!

  Me and my kayak buddy

After about an hour of scenic paddling, passing the odd cow or swan, the novelty began to wear off. The UCM organisers had planned for us to paddle 11km, with the option to stop at 8km, but after travelling about 3m in the first hour that 8km mark became the sole goal!

The 'pleasant' weather from the start of the day continued and we got wet from above and below while out on the water, not to mention the wind pciked up to the point that paddling full-steam meant treading water in one spot. We also ran into some tricky teeny-rapids and bigger-than-we'd-like rocks which all slowed us down. By this stage all 18 pairs of hands were frozen, noses were about to fall off, generally extremities weren't working ... except for one guy who managed to stop on the side bank for a pee! Because of my poor paddling technique, litres of water ran down my arms every time I lifted them to paddle, leaving my gloves wet enough to wring dry over the side! As the next hour dragged on the though crossed our minds that we may never make it and our group would be found as a bunch of floating popsicles by some Belgian farmer as we floated upstream!

Before the going got tough....

Finally, after about 3 hours (it was estimated to take only 2) we spotted a tiny figure on the bank ahead that turned out to be our kayak-hire-guy. Paddles were raised above heads in triumph and a surge of adrenaline propelled us all towards the bank where we flopped ashore. Wet and literally frozen we towelled off and headed for the nearest cafe where hot chocolate and soup brought life back into frozen lips and fingers. But the relief was short lived - while kayak-hire-guy dropped us back to where we started, we all still had to ride home from there!! All I can say to try and describe how cold I was by the time I got home was that it hurt to have a shower in the hot water! Not to mention the bruises on my hands from paddling and the array of stiff/strained muslces that reminded me the next day ... just how much 'fun' I'd had!

We maaaaade it!!

Observations: the River Maas scenery is actually quite picturesque as it winds up from Maastricht into Belgium

Mistakes: Kayaking in the Netherlands in any season other than Summer!

Mini victories: paddling 8km on a foreign river and NOT capsizing! e-Yessss!

Dutch I've learned: "Ik heet dit" = "I hate this"
"Het is heel, erg koud" = "I'ts bloody cold!!!"